Hey everybody. As promised I am working on compiling some videos I shot while on our trip. I tried to shoot from a tripod as much as possible. Hope you all enjoy it (my adobe premier pro skills are a serious work in progress 
)
Big horn sheep video style
Montana, North-Western Wyoming, Northern Portion of Yellowstone
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Jan 232010
Heading out this morning we were finally greeted by overcast and cloudy skies. The temperatures are rising here from the frigid temps they were before. Although the clouds didn’t stick around for long it sure was a pleasure working with the soft lighting.
As soon as we drove into the National Elk Refuge the big horn sheep were already by the side of the road. Its not always a given they will be there or even in sight. They seem tame to humans being around, but are not intimidated by our presence. After a while there was a traffic jam from everyone trying to get the best shot and not hurt the bighorn sheep. The biggest three males I’ve seen at Miller Butte came on down as well and caused the most traffic. Not moving for anyone, haha.
This little guy was the main subject for half of the morning. I can’t tell you how long I waited for him to stop eating momentarily and pick his head up for his portrait. To get him in a more vertical oriented stance was even more difficult. So worth the wait though. It’s always worth it to photograph the cute and cuddlies.
Here was Ma and Pa. They were part of the small herd hanging out at the beginning of the trail. The road is just below the bottom edge of the frame. They were that close! I never get tired of photographing them.
This is one of the older males that made their way down to the road. The males usually stay back while the ewes are the ones that wander. The larger and more developed the curl the older the individual (for males.)
Some testosterone was still laying around even in winter!
The weather in Jackson Hole has been exquisite and a fantastic boost to my photography. We need to remember that sometimes the best photography is in some of the worst of conditions. I want to add something to that though. If you look at the photograph you’ll find that the bighorn sheep is backlit. Often people shy away from backlit scenarios. Most expect a black subject; however this isn’t always true. If there is snow or enough reflective light you get this fantastic separation from the background for your subject. It can make them pop off the page. Commonly done in portraiture by adding a hair light or such. Just using a much bigger source.
These bison have moved into this wheat looking field for the past two days. Quite clever if you ask me. I loved the shades of contrasting color and have wanted them to get close enough to photograph. Many photographs later I believe I got one that shows enough of their face to make them out. That catch light really helps as well on such a dark subject.
After chasing the light to fit our subjects as the sun was setting we came upon this bald eagle. We actually spotted it from other cars pulling over. Finally got a chance to get a decent shot of him. I tried to get closer, but he wasn’t having that.
One other thing I need to do is figure out a way to get video I’m shooting streamlined. I have some great stuff I have been shooting in the down time and I really want to share it with you guys. I’ll see what I can do when I get back home in a week or so.
Savoring every last moment.
North-Western Wyoming, Photography
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Jan 192009
With the last day at hand we wondered to ourselves what to do. Not only were we exhausted, but we have explored an awful lot of area for winter conditions. We decided on two goals: one to make getting to the Flagg Ranch marker at the top of Grand Teton National Park and two a revisiting of the National Elk Refuge. The National Elk Refuge was a main locale for us as it was only within a mile or so from base and packed a ton of potential around Miller Butte. Flagg Ranch was a goal as we spend most of our time lower in the park.
The day started out with the National Elk Refuge. The skies looked dreary and dreadful. A huge cloud/snow type storm moved in making visibility not as well as you would hope. Driving alongside the butte we found a nice herd of big horn sheep who just happened to make their way down. At first I was excited to see them come within a decent distance to whip out the pre-extended tripod and begin shooting from the roadside. Two tourists with their cameras came up behind use and just willy nilly wandered along snapping without care to take any precaution from startling them. It amazes me as they have no concept of an animals being. Anyway, back to the moment. After a few minutes they got tired and left (thankfully!). I hung out there the whole time. This was a moment I wasn’t going to just piss away. At any moment things can change and boy did it. As I patiently just kept shooting breaking up my figure behind the tripod they moved closer. Closer to such a point I was a bit nervous, but I kept my nerve having trust in the big horns. Avoiding any rapid movements at all and trying to to stare or put off any aggressive vibes. I just sat still and watched the scene unfold in my viewfinder. They got to within leaping distance. It was such a good feeling that I had to sit back and just absorb for a few moments. That these animals did not find me to be a threat and were comfortable in my presence. That is not to say I didn’t walk away from the situation without some photographs.
The second part of the day included an event I hadn’t expected. Headed back we were coming out from near the Moran Junction and all of a sudden it shot from 26 degrees to zero degrees in a matter of minutes. Bringing with it this massive fog that covered everything. The whole valley was covered and you couldn’t see more then five feet in front of us. Driving conditions being what they were we naturally found a pull off and tried somehow to capture this amazing phenomena. It was also our first introduction to hoarfrost. Something new to us. Hoarfrost being when ice crystals form on top of ice crystals on top of ice crystals. We found this all over the snow, trees, you name it and it was covered. Really an amazing way to cap off the day. Now we just had to drive home with a goal of hitting nothing…(mission accomplished.)
Hoarfrost for breakfast? Youch.
“Yes?”
(insert musical notes here) Cletus the slack jawed yokel (and here)
Magpies abound. Between Ravens and Magpies they are the most abundant birds to be found in the area.
Hoarfrost sitting upfront of the view at Oxbow Bend.
Sudden fog formed in the distance during sunset after a sundrenched day on the frozen over Jackson Lake.
The view at sunset.
Hoarfrost on the snow! Made up front and center before the Grand Teton. Laying the Nikon D300 on the snow as a quick made tripod so I could crank aperature to f/32 made this shot possible. Having a battery grip takes the idea of water a little and moves it a bit farther from my mind, but with the seals it wasn’t much of a concern.
Tough break then. Some old habits die hard as they say. Dubois, Wyoming used to be a very large logging town and things have changed. You can still find bumper stickers saying, “Save Wyoming’s Wildlife. Shoot a treehugger.” It is a town/city of under a thousand residents. It tries hard to keep its old western town feel and look. Old saloon style store fronts. The whole deal. The main draw to Dubois was two things. The scenery along Togwotee Pass and self-guided Whiskey Mountain Wildlife Tour sponsored by National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center.It is over 80 miles one way from Jackson through treacherous mountain passes, but it sure as heck is worth it!
The morning started out extra early and fresh. With Dina’s fantastic french toast in our belly we were geared up and ready to go. We spotted and hung out with over nine moose in total for the whole day. Not all at great range, but a great sighting. Four at a time at one pull off. (Unfortunately you get to realize how loud motors really do affect these animals. As soon as a crappy built ATV rolls on by, a huge pick up or semi the animals trot off in the other direction.) The pass is a twisting and winding ride that is filled with wonder. You’re over 9,500ft above sea level with views that are hard to imagine. The greatest part was watching the storm behind us break apart as we approached Dubois. The scenery is constantly changing. You just keep shooting as every moment is a unique sliver of time. Once you enter Dubois it feels like the badlands of the west. Even though it is at freezing temperatures; there is still no snow in sight.
The drive in to the refuge for the bighorn sheep (not a protected national park area unfortunately) is narrow, incredibly bumpy and 4×4 recommended. It is about a 6.6 mile drive inward. We didn’t think we would see much. However as we turned a corner near a mineral salt lick there was a nice herd of ten. Saw a yearling and a few males. Mostly ewes. Some harsh back-lighting that I thought was going to ruin the photos, but added a major boost to my photography. We didn’t stick around too long as I wanted to see what was left of the trail (figuring we could just go back later.) We get to the end and there is this hike I read about called the Glacier trail. I didn’t know about the climb part. Dina was a real good sport as we climbed 350+ft in less then half a mile. It was a multi-stop break climb for us. The views were incredible. The whole valley just opens up in front of you. The glacier view part was a frozen waterfall that wasn’t so spectacular and was filled with too much for the dynamic range of my sensor. Felt great to do the walk though. A chorus of black-capped chickadees, mountain chickadees, and red-breasted nuthatches were at the top to lead the way.
The trip on back after eating our packed lunches was looking to be a pleasant one. The herd was still there and patiently hanging out. To our dismal surprise some gigantic morons were walking onto private land approaching the sheep as you’re NOT supposed to. All for a stupid picture, not worth harassing any subject. To top it off, after those idiots left from my rude demeanor of a response, another guy gets out of his pick up and decides he will walk up a hill to a blind side of the sheep (comes up from behind them with the hill as a blind.) Real brainiac of an idea folks. As soon as he peaks over the hill guess what happens? They bolt away! Ruining any chances of capturing them on film (don’t worry tom0rrows experience-or is it today?- was incredible. Make sure to tune in). This all unfolded as we were sitting in the car. Not only inconsiderate to the animals, but how about the guy with a lens sitting in the car behind you!
After the trio of schmucks spoiled the fun we headed on out in search of vistas. Something this area is nothing short of. You can see the mountain snow covered peaks while being on the ground with rufous/rust covered hillsides. There were a lot of ranches on the way out which were a treat to just see. They were filled with these beautiful and majestic horses enjoying the crisp winter air.
The ride home was filled with snow filled antics and many pull offs to take in the views. Trying to take it all in feels as if it would require an eternity of observation.
Our buddy the cow moose munching on some vibrant willow.
Just a sampling of the amazing peaks to be found along the Togwotee Pass.
There aren’t many more things cuter then a yearling big horn sheep. Especially with that fuzzy head.
Ewe smiling for a close-up.
A gorgeous tree being Rembrandt lit. It was amazing the sensor held such a range of light hitting this colorful tree along our trail.
A mountain chickadee on the hunt for some good seed.
The rust color rockside was just so vibrant and filled with color.
The photograph I was able to get off of a partial family before nimrod scared them off and up the hill.
Mule deer right by the side of the road. Made me a bit nervous as I didn’t want them to get hurt. They seemed more then patient with us. Especially with me reaching over the passenger side seat to try and photograph them.
The amazing expanse you can see entering the town of Dubois, WY. Simply gorgeous. These willows would have made you think it was fall.
Powder powder every where…
North-Western Wyoming, Photography
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Jan 122009
… the fluffy stuff of course. We finally arrived yesterday afternoon and began gearing up for the days to come. We arrived with an hour and a half delay from Chicago O’Hare airport. The delay was worth it however. The Boeing 757 we were on had a 182 person capacity and was only filled with 50 people! Worth every moment.
Once we got settled we headed out the following morning in search of elk, and big horn sheep near miller butte. Miller butte is part of the National Elk Refuge. A key aspect of the area is the valley known as Jackson Hole. It provides a shelter from the more severe heavy winter weather prone to the area. This morning was filled with elk and scattered big horn sheep amongst the mountain tops. We saw bison from a checkpoint, but could not pass. Prohibited for protection of wildlife. We will have to luck out for bison elsewhere.
Next stop Kelly! We moved on to the town of Kelly, really tiny, you can see it all with your own eyes from one spot (and no not on a mountain top, just on level ground.) We took Gros Ventre road and followed it on through. Moving real slowly to find any wildlife along the way (also to avoid a tragic accident or harming of any animals.) As we were driving I spotted this beige hump in the snow. As we slowly crept closer (wish we had a hybrid so the engine would cut off) he picked his head up. A coyote! We were full of excitement. Not just at the sight of him, but the proximity. Could you believe he was 12 feet right from the car. He was munching on a vole he caught from the subnivian (the space between the bottom of the snow layer and the top of the earth) layer under the snow. (Coyotes use their hearing and scent to locate the voles and then pounce head first into the snow. The pouncing is to create a large enough distance to avoid vibration that would cause them to flee.)
Adrenaline was running and we got to recording. As I start shooting the shutter stops. Card is full, oh no! Like a doofus I forgot to switch cards at the last stop. I’m panicked now because my CF card wallet is in the back of the trunk with my camera bag. I’m thinking if I get out he is surely gonna bolt. I get out as quietly as I can leaving the door open not to slam it. Creep around the back get the hatchback open and scramble to change the card. I turn the side of the car and he is still there. Unphased. Munching on his newly discovered treat. After flying through half of an 8gb card he begins to approach. So close it was only a few feet, no more then an arms length! He comes close glances at me and trots off across the road on his way to find more grub. What a compliment!
Elk climbing the butte to escape some of the numbskulls whizzing by.
Big horn sheep and a ewe grazing the sage brush just 20ft from the car. They don’t seem receptive to the traffic (if traffic is 2 cars all around.) Thankfully though as it was such a treat to have them move down by so much.
Elk on the move. Sitting and working from the cover of your car keeps them mostly in place. As soon as joggers went by a whole herd of them was on the move. This is only a small portion seen to try and work out a darn electric pole. That isn’t blur on the bottom. Those are the snow drifts. Massive sustained winds randomly swept in from the mountains above. 27 degrees, pretty darn warm, until you factor the 30mph winds in. Ah to have windproof shells; a necessity in this weather.
Kelly warm springs. This is a hot spring just near the town of Kelly (go figure I know.) This is on the outer skirts of the massive volcanic activity to be found under the earth in north west Wyoming.
Who says there is no color in winter? These gorgeous willow bushes line the sides of the road. Took me back to the warm feeling of fall. Warm by Jackson,WY standards.
The pièce de résistance. What a beauty to withhold.
As he bids us all farewell in is his never ending persistence toward survival.
The silence is something that must be experienced. Not a combustion engine to be heard for miles. You can only hear the blood coursing through your veins. This special place holds a silence that makes one whole again.
