Los Islotes meaning the islets or small islands is a place near and dear to our hearts. We went here two years ago an just fell in love with the location (despite the awful overcast lighting.) It is not very far from the city of La Paz and will be a life changing experience for you. Los Islotes is a haul out for California sea lions. The way the walls of the islands are formed they reverberate the sound into a loud chorus of barking. It is one of those few magical places where you can get engulfed in the surf, life, and even smells of these animals. We started the morning out with Zodiac tours of the area in the early morning sun. These islands are also guano covered as the area is rich in sardines and other small fish that venture through the area. One of the main reasons life is abundant here. One of the most exciting and main reason for visiting Los Islotes is the ability to go snorkeling with the sea lions. As long as you keep your fingers to yourself you will get to have a pleasurable experience. The sea lions feel with their teeth and unless you want to offer up your fingers as play toys hold them close and enjoy the experience.

After Los Islotes we spent our final full day exploring a near by island either with the local naturalist or on our own. A more laid back way to cap off the week. A week that had us up at or before dawn and busy way past dusk. Taking a vacation from a vacation as I and others like to describe it. With photos organized and now time to play I headed to shore solo and debated what to do. I contemplated kayaking, but one of our naturalists Gretchen Pederson had alluded to some of the wildlife that could be found. I didn’t find the illusive black jack rabbit, but I did have fun with some lizards along the desert floor. Got so close I was wearing a cactus. By wearing I mean I got some pretty nice thorns in my knee. Didn’t feel it going in, but you could feel the length as it came out. Glad their spines/spikes aren’t poisonous. As long as the infection is treated. It’s amazing how you can walk some of this desert locations and come back with cuts or stab marks and not even realize you have been hit by them. Part of the experience, and it all heals anyway.

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This is just a fraction of what you can experience at Los Islotes. It may not be a large area, but they sure know how to congregate.

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Sleeping California sea lions laying upon one another magically clinging to those rocks. They never sease to ever be photographed without an aww factor.

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Guano may be a super nutrient to plant life, but get too much of it and it can kill off plant life as well. A lesson in life about greed there. This is a sole cardon cactus that is alive on this island. All the other guano suppresses them making it difficult to grow.

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Location Location Location. How important have we heard this item can be? It’s been found that although males appear to be defending the females and seem most impressive, it is the location they seek to defend. Females aren’t seeking out the most robust male; they are concerned with prime real estate for giving birth to their pups. Who ever happens to patrol and own this territory gets the mates. Usually many more then one.

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This is one of those images I am most proud of. Not only to I love the shot, but it has my beautiful photographer in training in it (part of Los Islotes in the background.) Due to the unfortunate demise of her Sony HD DVD Handycam in the first day of our trip she has decided to pick up an older Nikon D70 and give it a whirl. Not only did she try it, but she loves it. She took my favorite Sigma 150mm f/2.8 macro lens and won’t give it up, but that is another story :-) . I am just so proud and how much it warms my heart to see her share the passion that I do for digital photography and nature. What happens to really take the cake is the images she has been able to produce. She is able to find compositional elements in scenes and capture those powerful moments in time that help tell the story to our whole adventure. I can’t wait to see what she will come out with next!

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The punk worth pricking my knee for. Getting low to the ground and using the shallow depth of field to capture this image I believe was key. This was shot with the Nikon 80-400mm believe it or not. One of the many reasons I love the versitility of the lens. Given the chance you can get some great upclose images. This male was presenting his chest as a sign of dominance to show me who’s boss. You can tell he won as all I walked away with was his picture. The result of an exchange I am happy to live by.

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Great sunsetting backlight on the galloping cactus caught my eye. Bringing in that black point really made the image pop (one of these suckers ends pieces on the ground is what I removed from my knee.)

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This last and final image to the post is actually a 21 image composite. I shot it horizontally working from the top down. When stitching I had to rotate my picture 90 degrees for it to stitch properly. Now this may look like a crop to you so rather then add the fullsize version in the post I have put the compiled image with a width of 500px below for you to enjoy. Always experimenting to reach new levels of my photography. (This is a cardon cactus by the way.)

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The mind rambles on thinking of the myriad of possibilities.

Mar 242009

Waking to find dolphins  bow riding was a short enjoyable treat. Then the pilot whales made an appearance and that is always a welcomed experience, but nothing touched the young afternoon to come. We started seeing sperm whale blows all over. We came to a huge congregation of sperm whales. Now you may say well we saw them before. Well not like this! We came upon a social gathering that was getting to know the new born calf. We even got to see the baby copying other members of the group. As others would tail lob so would the calf. Usually you just experience the specially angled blow hole, but this time they were incredibly active. You couldn’t have asked for much more. They were bringing their heads out of the water showing their jaw and even their teeth. It was an experience many don’t see all that often. They were very friendly and we must have photographed them for at least an hour. I filled almost every memory card I own. I haven’t ever done that before. Must have been on the order of 40gb worth of data. Just an absolutely insane afternoon. One that will be with us for a long time to come.

For the afternoon we headed to Isla Coronados and spent the evening hiking/exploring the island. For me and Dina it didn’t last long. Wandering on volcanic rock doesn’t always feel safe with your camera dangling over your shoulder on a tripod. I had a big boulder come out from under me and send me for a ride. Thank fully it all panned out ok. We all had fun though at the shore line. There is an amazing abundance of life right at the shallows at the shore. Always have to watch where you walk as life is present in all forms. From itsy bitsy hermit crabs to young sergeant majors. Not like our filtered almost lifeless beaches we are accustomed to (they don’t have to be that by the way.)

All this time on this trip I never got to snap some shots of a beautiful sunset. Something the area is known for. Well that night with wispy clouds in the sky and a receding sun over the mountain tops we were gifted with some truly serene moments.

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A pilot whales fluke. Water cascades as he heads for a dive. They have their distinct torqued upward ends of their flukes.

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One of the concentrated pods. You can see the calf being protected between to large individuals. We actually witnessed the baby coming up from the water hoisted up by the adults. My buffer was running low and only snapped two shots. Those of which remain with me  :-)

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Their massive heads can be seen as they float vertically to the surface and actually open their mouths! Being able to see their individual teeth.

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What your seeing is a deformed jaw of a sperm whale. The fascinating thing about sperm whales is that they have found sperm whales with full stomachs that had deformed or even missing lower jaws. They hypothesize that with their massive heads they use their acoustic power to stun their prey and then suck in their meals. Something that could definitely be plausible from what we witnessed. You could actually hear the sperm whales as we all went silent taking in the life changing scene. You could even see the water flickering from the strength of their clicks. Absolutely astonishing.

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Could their have been a more appropriate touch to the experience?
(color was enhanced with a little bit of
saturation placed by control points)

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A baby hammer head photographed as it flew by cruising through the Gulf of California. (apears to be a great hammer head as scalloping doesn’t appear to be present.) Contrast was boosted to pull some detail into the image.

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A Close up shot of one of the most friendly grasshoppers I know. He let me get as close as I wanted. Even at a 1:1 ratio (this one isn’t that close.) I don’t normally like to be this close up and crop the body, but I wanted to share of the magnificent detail of this insect.

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A female Costa’s humming bird that I was camping out for to get her photograph. She would come down to drink every so often when people didn’t come too close. She was my first subject until I moved onto locating the male.

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The one shot of the male that is most clear. The sun was setting and waiting for him to come take a drink was quite difficult. Trying to stay still while having flies and bugs crawl all over you including ants can be a bit unnerving. However the effort put in eventually pays off, or so I like to think that way. It was amazing to see the aerobatic courtship of this beautiful tiny bird. It would use its movements to help the whirl of its high pitched call. He and one other male were actually trying to woo the female you see above.

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The color of the suns rays just kissing the sky and capping the mountains in the distance was a perfect way to say goodbye to the day.

Due to the grey whales migrating so soon we had to move on to San Ignacio Lagoon. It was a drive of 45min on a good road to the town of San Ignacio and then an hour and a half drive on basically compressed sand road littered with stones. Testing the limits to see if your joints are all attached properly.

The experience was definitely something else. We all split into groups and boarded ‘pongas’ (aka small fiberglass motor boats.) Nothing fancy at all. Basically looked like a totally open boat with some benches of the same material across it’s inner sides. Fifteen minutes out and into the protected areas we went. We had some trouble as we never found a friendly whale for ourselves, but we did witness it abundantly for others. The photography was a treat as these graceful animals would slowly rise from the shallow 40ft depth gracing us with their presence.

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This is a five frame HDR composite put together with photomatrix 3 pro. The early morning sun was highlighting the top portion and the lower section of the San Ignacio Kadakaaman church (mission) was in shadow. Not great for our cameras sensors. I Pushed the detail to really ‘grunge the image’ and exagerate the detail.

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Another HDR five frame composite taken from inside the church. Saturation was pushed hard. In hindsight it might be a bit much, what do you think?

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This is the back a grey whale which is assumed to have had a chunk taken out of her via an orca. The ‘scabbing’ you see in the peach type color is actually hundreds if not thousands of sea lice taking blood from the wound. Yummy.

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A grey whales head as she breaths through her blow hole.

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This is the grey whale experience we all set out to achieve. Not all had the opportunity, but being in their presence is life changing experience.

Around 6:30am an announcent comes over the speaker announcing sperm whales off the bow! Flying to get my gear I whip out of bed and head for the deck (over slept.) There were sperm whales just everywhere. These whales are toothed whales unlike the previous whales in my posts (minus the false killer whales.) They have the largest brains in the world and the deepest divers. Their diet consists of squid so in order to get their meals they must travel far below the suface. They have a single blow hole like all toothed whales, but their spout is actually at a 45 degree angle. Unfortunatey what you see at the surface is just a small portion of the story. My friend Carlos Navarro actually is the only human being to ever record and witness them feeding from their mouths not via their blowhole.

This next portion of the day ran me 24gb of shooting space! San Pedro Martir is the most remote island in the Gulf of California and is is a fantastic one at that. It is approximately 33 square kilometers in area and is just covered in guano. And by covered I mean that in all possible senses. There are thousands of blue footed and brown footed boobies inhabiting the area breeding. We see everything from tropic birds, yellow footed gulls, harimans gulls, eared grebes and pelicans ‘painting’ the entire landscape. Thankfully protected from guano harvesters. This nitrogen rich substance (aka bird poop) is the perfect nutrient to spawn the growth of all sorts of flora (plant life.)

The one truly awesome and most fun thing for me is photographing california sea lions. They are the only ones that bark I am told and with the caves and groves in the cliff side their calls orchestrate and reverberate for thousands of feet. Truly phnominal. Plus they look like puppies which can’t hurt the level of the enjoyment. The rest of the day will be spent heading toward Santa Rosalia across the penninsula for our adventure in San Ignacio Lagoon. We will be spending 90min with the grey whales on pongas (small boats.) Unfortunately it is a 45min ride on a good road and 1.5hr on a bad road to get there. This is the consequence of the grey whales migrating in mass so soon and never seen in almost three decades! …and yes I changed tenses in this article. Waiting for night to start working on images is killer to your sleeping habits. Finally found an hour to breathe..I mean work.

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The early morning sun was the perfect compliment to these bow riding bottlenose dolphins.

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Backlighting doesn’t always have to be a boon to your photography. It’s perfect for lighting the blows of this sperm whale.

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Blue footed boobies line the top of San Perdro Martir and brown footed boobies line the walls.  The guano is high in nitrogen so as long as they aren’t super saturated in the stuff it is a huge nutrient for plant growth.

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Sleepy sea lion. Aww.

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No official ID was made, but this was a baleen whale that had washed up onto the island. From the color you could tell it has been there for a little bit already in the sun. This is a stitched panorama shot from a zodiac. Using vertical exposures to avoid excessive cropping.

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Eared grebes were everywhere. They have a beautiful orange eye, but are very cautious of any approach.

What a morning. We typically start our morning out on the bow of the ship before sunrise in search of any aquatic megafauna that we can find. So how did we do you ask. Well; we happened to come upon a large pod of false killer whales. My friend Carlos has only witnessed them five times in the last 21 years. Plus these were cooperative and didn’t flee thankfully as we tried to peacefully approach for some fantastic views. What is so amazing too is that they actually have a bent ‘elbow’ like shape in their pectoral fins. A big field mark in identifying them, if they breach the waters.

After leaving the false killer whales we began transversing the waters to our destination Isla San Marcos. This would be the site of our beach side bar-b-que and my only attempt at a star trail. When we arrived at the island the sun was at high noon and the light was awful. There didn’t seem to be a picture anywhere you could point your lens. Not to mention the lizards were just not having any part of sticking it out in the harsh mid-day sun. Thankfully we had a nesting pair of ospreys to camp out for. Since it is early nesting season we avoided the best we could to approach the nest in anyway. What we did do is camp out on the shore line working any flybys that we could. Some may have just panned out ;-) .

The night was a fun one. This is my second time working the star trails. Nikon caps their continuous shutter releases at 100 in the D300, which is a major pain in the kiester. So I purchased the MC-36 to try and remedy the situation. Unfortunately what I thought would finally solve the problem doesn’t. It still forces the internal setting to sit at no less then a second, causing a second gap. So while the broad picture is awesome, the 100-200% crop isn’t too pleasing. Something I’m hoping that can be remedied. Either way It’s a ton of fun. If this internet would get its darn act together I would be able to push these out to you sooner. Shot 38gb the other day….38 gb! (and possibly more today, yikes!) *more to come soon (tomorrow)*

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This is a Phenomena called the green flash. it happens to occur as the sun rises (and sets I believe) over the horizon with nothing blocking its path. It happens for a split second and I had to let the shutter rip to get what I wanted.

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This is a Breach of a false killer whale. I wanted to share with you that distinctive field  mark that you can clearly see here.

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A sperm whale fluke with water cascading as it dives deep into the ocean.

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One of many brown footed boobies that were flying incredibly close to the boat for a close up.

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A bottlenose dolphin breaching alongside the zodiac as they fly outward to try and get some underwater footage.

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Although I really enjoy this image of stampeding sea lions it also upsets me. If you look at the female on the upper left side she has a dark ring around her neck. Garbage that has wrapped around her neck and will lead to her death if left untreated. Thankfully Lindblad helps to get donations to help save these mammals. Hope she is one of them. Please take your fishing lines, trash, and nets back with you or dispose of them properly. Thank you.

_jms2454-copyWhad’ya think?

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Two guys that I requested not try and get out of my shot. That is venus in the background between them. I boosted the contrast and raised my black point to get the darker vignetting you see.

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mm..mmm..mmmm… is all I can say. The sun was perfectly kissing these veggies as they were being grilled on a skillet out on the beach. It was incredible! Incredibly tasty too. :-)

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The result of 107  one minute frames stitched together. I missed Polaris by a fraction of an inch. Had limited time, but I’m liking the result more and more especially over just using ‘bulb’ on the camera.

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