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I mentioned in the previous review that I found a solution using the Phottix Plato N8 remote for startrails. I finally had the chance when I traveled two hours north into New York from New York City. The photo you see above is the result of what the batteries in the remote would hold out too. I got off about 115 images at 30second intervals. Compiled them using startrails (for free) and wallah. It was not as long as I wanted, but based on a rough estimate fresh batteries would have gone much longer. I originally tested the remote with this process to see if it could get past the Nikon ~100 image limit in one release previously. I fired off at least 200+ images testing Nikon’s single release factor plus all the testing photos with it. I’d estimate it to be able to shoot at least 300+ images which wouldn’t be too shabby. Next time I will test over a longer period of time.

Okay, so as for what I was talking about with gaps. Here is a photo that I took in Baja California Mexico using the MC-36 interval timer wired remote which has a minimum of 1 second gaps. Zoomed out you can’t tell what I mean by the gaps it causes. Keep in mind the larger gaps are a few images I had to pull from the sequence due to a random unrepeatable digital camera anomaly (drives me nuts I can’t repeat it to get it repaired, but happy it doesn’t seem to occur often.)

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This is a 100% crop. What I mean by this is I zoomed in at 100% and then cropped out what I saw. See all those tiny little dash lines? I feel if you blow up a nice star trail this could be an issue (click image for full size.)

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Here is the photo taken from the New York scene at the beginning of this post. The lines are much more crisp and solid. Something I personally prefer. The sky isn’t as dark as a lonely Baja California isle, but it sure is enough to make a point. This is also  a 100% crop (click image for full size.)

This is just one more plus about the remote. Battery life will have to be something I will need to officially time, but I’ll be honest. I don’t want to stay up to 3-4 in the morning waiting for batteries to die :-p. I will probably just use the timer on my photos and check it beginning to end of the last frame taken. Leaving me with a margin of error of thirty seconds to a minute.

One other thing I wanted to address about the remote was based on a comment I received on my review of the unit. Due to the unit having the convenience of sliding into the hot shoe it will also block the pop up flash from fully rising. I wanted to note that you could let the transmitter hang over the lens barrel, just plain hang down, hold it to your tripod using a rubber band or even double stick velco tape. I wouldn’t let it dangle too unsupported as it may stress the headphone port. Not sure how well reinforced it is and it could deteriorate over time.

UPDATE: Check out Flipping Typical for a non software based font solution. Link was provided from Thomas Goodwin. Thanks!

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Last but not least I found a neat program I wanted to share. it is for those of us who want to find fonts for projects or in any other scenario. It is freeware and is designed to show you exactly all the fonts that are on your computer.  The program is called Free&Easy Font Viewer 2.0. You can get it at www.download.com and give it a try. It has helped me in a bind when working on a few projects of my own. There is an advanced version, but the freeware version does all that I need.

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(black point, white point, polarization to 200% in Nik’s Color eFex Pro 3.0)

This past memorial day weekend I went to the Jones Beach Airshow. I had a fantastic time saluting our troops and enjoying many of our inventions and tools that they use to protect this great country. Going to an airshow is something I highly recommend to anyone. They are a ton of fun and the bigger ones have some amazing headliners. This year the major act headlining the show was the US Air Force’s Thunderbirds. They are painted in red white and blue and put on a major show. There are high powered aircraft such as the f-18 hornet and many local performers showing off their stunt planes and what they can do, as well as legacy planes that are always exciting to see. I was hoping for some nice peppered in cumulus clouds with a bright blue sky. What did I get instead? 20+ mph winds that prevented the US Army Golden Knights from performing and sand just blowing everywhere. Why did I want cumulus clouds? After shooting several airshows with a plain blue sky it’s.. well.. plain. As you can see from last years f-22 raptor (shown here) the right weather makes all the difference. Unfortunately we can’t make the weather (..yet anyway) and I was left with high winds and haze fighting its way in. The rain held up however and we always try to make the best of it. A few tips for me to remember when shooting the airshows:

1) Shoot at 320th of a second if not a bit slower to get the motion of the propeller.

2) When it comes to jets with no moving parts (such as propellers) you keep a low enough ISO setting to reduce noise and your lowest yet sharp aperture and fire away. You can normally get away with f/8 on a clear day as the sun is so bright. Depth of field really isn’t too much of a concern considering the distance of your subject, just aim for the center body of the aircraft with your autofocus point.

3) Matrix metering does the trick real well.

4) Polarizers may be tempting at times, but they steal light and if you don’t have proper hand holding technique down you will need those extra 100ths of a second to freeze that action. Plus for this scenario polarization can be added via Nik’s plugins using color efex pro in photoshop.

5) Take advantage of high speed shooting when you have dueling planes. Line up the plane with the autofocus point that is approaching with the eye that is in the viewfinder. For example if you are using your right eye in the viewfinder put the plane coming from the right on an autofocus point to the far right of the focus screen. Your next objective is to track him and keep your other eye open. This way it will allow you to anticipate when the planes are getting close and you can rip that shutter. Trying to freeze action of a plane going 500+mph dead on to get both would be real tricky.

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Method for post process:

1) Real simple. Using the levels area of your editing program whether it be capture or photoshop take a look at your shadow and highlights slider. What we will want to do is grab the shadow slider and bring it almost plum to where the data begins on your histogram. Same goes for your highlights slider. It’s just that simple. Shooting in normal conditions with blue skies or even mixed clouds put in leaves things simple.


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The show started off with several passes of the Flying Fortress. A favorite of mine. This year they did something new for the show. Rather then drop bombs into the water they dropped watermelons!

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Our Canadian friends came to put on a show and boy did they. From dual dueling to loops and striking fly byes they did it all. To keep nine planes in full coordination and have an idea of where they are is truly a feat within itself.

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These planes really were capable of so much. It was a pleasure to watch our next door neighbors take on the sky for all us on the beach below.

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This is one of the several stunt planes that performed. From the Oracle Bi-Plane to the..

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Zivko Edge 540 performing a 17 loop act (couldn’t fit them all.)

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The A-10 came out which is still used in service today. A great thing at these airshows for photographers and enthusiasts is that they know we all want pictures of them and they do slow fly byes. They will do their normal performance, but many times do a real slow gradual pass for all us shutter nuts.

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Speaking of variable speed we have the f-18 hornet seen here in a legacy fly over. It can go as slow as 74 knots and still stay airborne…

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…yet it can break the sound barrier!

They never fail to disappoint our men and women of the the military forces.

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Geico skywriters stepped in and painted the sky with beautiful formations and nimble aerobatics.

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Something that was a treat for me that I have never seen before is this red bull sponsored aerobatic helicopter. This isn’t a flipped photograph. This is the first ever certified, in the world, stunt aerobatic helicopter pilot. The helicopter is specially built and he puts it to the test. From loops to corkscrews, and barrel rolls! I never knew a helicopter could do something even close to that.

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The Thunderbirds truly entertained and showed us just some of what those F-16C aircraft can do. From the moment the suspenseful music started they blasted onto the scene not hearing a peep out of them until they were already over head. These aircraft have been in use for over 20yrs as performance era planes on the circuit. The longest to have that title. They put on a show that does not disappoint.

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So with that said get out and enjoy those airshows anywhere you can. They are a fantastic way to spend the day. I Just touched on some of the airplanes that were at the Jones Beach airshow put on every Memorial Day weekend out on Long Island, NY. There is a ton of great food, wonderful patriotic atmosphere and an all around good time. Plus great photography!

“It’s the Soldier, not the reporter,

who has given us freedom of the press.

It’s the Soldier, not the poet,

who has given us freedom of speech.

It’s the Soldier, not the campus organizer,

who has given us freedom to demonstrate.

It’s the Soldier, not the lawyer,

who has given us the right to a fair trail.

And it’s the Soldier who salutes the flag,

who serves the flag,

whose coffin is draped in the flag,

that allows the protester to burn the flag”

-Father D. E. O’Brien


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Inspired by Moose for photographing birds during nesting season I went in search of a solution. A solution to keep me over 10 feet away from my subject and still be able to trigger my camera. I have a Nikon D300 so this particular device might not work on every camera in the world, but by use of its interchangeable cable design it does for most. From Canon, to Nikon and Sony…etc.

My frustrations with finding a device began when I heard the price of Nikon’s 9.8 foot extension cord (something against an even 10 feet?) According to B&H Photo it’s 80$! There is no way in hell I’m paying 80$ for copper wire and a cable that may contain lead in the state of California. To be fair if you check B&H’s summer catalog it lists for 70$… (get a price quote from them if you really want to go that route) WOW what a bargain! Sarcasm aside I sought out a different solution. I did what most people in the 21st century do, search Google for other products. I found a few remotes, but they are old technology and still not within my price range. Taking the next logical step when no company in the US of A makes a product you want; I searched eBay.

Searching eBay I came across a few decent looking and well received products. Unfortunately a lot of them use CR 123 batteries; both expensive and impracticable. Finally after searching I found the Phottix Plato N8. It takes AAA batteries (convenience and I only use rechargeables which are better for the environment as well as recyclable) and looked light weight with simple operation. There are plenty of videos and at least one other review out there. What I wanted to do was add more views and a description of the product through use and application. All the snapshots I took will be in a gallery for all the angles I could thinking of taking a picture for.

When the unit arrived it came in a presentable package with an insert and a pamphlet of instructions (see gallery.) Everything was spelled out on the pamphlet on how to use the device. There is also an instructional video out there that explains its function in video form for those that prefer to not deal with written text :-p. The construction of the device appears to be well built. I dropped the main transmitter unit by accident and it fell flat and continues to work. The battery cover to both devices could be an issue for some. The covers are not attached and must be handled carefully as without them you can’t complete the circuit. They slide in and stay in just fine.

Experimenting with the device lead me to an issue that I later solved. I almost always have my D300 in continuous high mode. The trick was that 9 out of 10 times when you choose single shutter release and hit the button it fires off two frames. I am not to sure why it’s doing this, but a quick remedy is to just put it in regular shutter release mode on the camera body if you want to prevent this. Say if you have limited shooting capacity  or you don’t want too many duplicates. The remote works just like a shutter release cable. You can half press the button on the wireless remote allowing auto-focus operation. If you don’t want it to auto-focus every time just put the camera in manual auto-focus and pre-focus where you want. A huge factor for me is also the dual communication. What’s the point of walking 100+ feet (goes amazingly further, more on that in a moment) if you don’t know the camera is taking photographs?! The top of the remote will have two green lights that stay lit when half pressing to let you know it’s within range.

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Speaking of range; I wanted to test how far away it truly can fire that shutter. The unscientific way of testing was setting her up on a tripod and taking a walk. I had Dina stand by for confirmation and security of the gear. I set the Camera on a tripod with my Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 and set the zoom to 35mm. When multiplied by a 1.5x crop factor it works out to almost 50mm. An angle of view equal to our own eyesight. I used my shoe counting off paces toe to heel tip. I was able to walk in front of the camera with the unit facing forward and get the camera to fire with little problem at 800 paces or unscientifically around 800ft! This sucker is only rated for 320ft. I couldn’t point the device right at it, I had to arch my shot just a tad to get a good shot from ~800ft.) These are in wide open scenarios with little to no RF interference. So results I’m sure will vary. To be fair I wanted to test the device facing the other way. Since normally we will be photographing in the direction behind the camera and not in front of it.

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Walking with the device turned around and the device facing in the opposite direction (fits in the hot shoe both ways) I was able to get to about 500 paces or approximately 500ft being able to get a shot off. In my tests these were near maximums. I had to do some fiddling of the remote direction to get it to shoot 500ft or so and in the other direction of 800ft it was shooting quite well. This device goes more then the 320ft stated and I would stay in that range to make sure that you get constant shooting without worry.

Keep in mind this remote has dual functionality as it can plug right into the attaching cable and can be used as a wired remote; however you do need batteries in the remote to work. Battery life appears to be quite good as I have run some tests and it is as fast as hitting a wired remote release. It also has a 2second timer mode that counts out 2 seconds on the remote (not the camera), a continuous shutter mode where it pumps out five shots in succession, and a bulb mode that operates just like locking the shutter release in. You will have to put your camera in continuous high, continuous low, or bulb in shutter priority to take advantage of this. In a single shutter release mode on your camera it will not keep sending the signal for repetitious shooting.

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(Pardon the ugly plastic. It comes pre-applied for protection. Has a glossy front that loves finger prints. Not really a concern though.)

Curious about all these modes I sought a solution for star trails! Star trails involves taking a series of images on a locked down tripod of the night sky over a period of time. Then compiling them on your PC. I have purchased the MC-36 remote and I detest its price and remedial superiority to the interval timer in camera. What I decided to do (after finding bulb mode on the remote didn’t work) I tried the continuous mode on the remote. I took a piece of rubber I had laying around and strapped it to the remote release on the wireless remote using a rubber band. Wallah! I had continuous shooting that did not stop after 100 continuous releases! Nikon puts a limit (somewhere around 100 shutter releases depending on which camera you have) on how many shots can be taken with one held press of the shutter; even with a remote cable (or in this case wireless) release. Why I have never gotten an answer. Why a professional grade camera can’t fire 100+ images in one session is beyond me. Especially when the CF card, buffer and 30″ or so exposure would allow for it. Please note I locked down the wireless remote in that 5 pulse continuous mode. For reasons why see here. Your only limitation of course is battery life. Living in NYC I can’t actively test its battery life, but it held up way past 100 shots so I am very happy. Will save me a ton on some big expensive remotes that are available. I checked the time stamp on my images and it fired off two seconds back to back and occasionally with a one second gap. A one second gap came standard with the MC-36 so to me it is a fine trade off.

All in all it appears to be the best product on the market. The dealer however makes me very upset. I had an on going dispute with them as it took a century to ship. I wanted this for spring and as spring was waning it came. It took them a week at least for the item for ship. That is because I inquired about what different cables would cost so I could use the device with different cameras. With that request they held my unit up for shipment. I never asked them to do so and it even said they do not combine shipping on their auction page. So what’s the deal?! It took three weeks to find out when it would ship or if it even had. Not until I said I won’t buy a cable until I know the unit even shipped did they tell me the status. 1.5 months later I got my item! Obviously my situation may have been a rarer case, but none the less I thought I should share ( and per encouragement of my friend and great photographer Thomas Goodwin.) The business is called HKSUPPLIES and the user is etefore. It’s a hard deal to pass up at 45$. Just don’t ask about extra cables until after you get your item to prevent a hold up. By the way the cables cost around 9$ in case you are curious. That took a while too, heh.

Pros -

  • Convenient AAA Batteries.
  • Compact & Light.
  • 300ft+ range in unobstructed space.
  • Two way communication to know if the device is still able to trigger the camera.
  • Wireless and attached modes.
  • Halfway depressing button allowing activation of auto-focus and vibration reduction from afar.
  • Interchangeable camera-to-unit cables purchasable via contact with Hong Kong supplier eBay account for ~9$.
  • Low price point of 45$ plus free regular shipping.
  • Came with four free AAA batteries, Toshiba. (Get rechargeables, Maha Imedion brand come pre-charged, can be charged over 500 times and hold 85% of their charge up to a year!)
  • Multi-Directional; not limited like an infrared beam would be.
  • Sturdy Build
  • Multi-function operation (2sec timer, single shutter release, continuous 5-burst mode, bulb)
  • Main wireless unit mounts in hot-shoe.
  • Built in security to prevent interference or cross triggering. They come pre-configured, but you can re-sync yourself.
  • Able to shoot star trails with solid lines and not dash lines (see more here.)

Cons -

  • Made in China (nothing better else where though)
  • Long shipping period so plan ahead. Anywhere from 1-3weeks. Aim longer then shorter.
  • Low re-sale
  • Out of country support (They definitely try to help and be attentive, but be very clear as to what you want and keep it simple!)
  • When connecting the remote directly to the camera via the cable it still requires batteries.
  • Battery covers are not attached, so be careful!
  • Top of remote loves fingerprints.

Update 3/19/2010: I have had a mixed experience with their customer service. Make sure to be clear, well documented, and precise with your complaints/concerns/exchanges/returns. I had a major issue with the 10-pin connector wire. I contacted them a total of 4x before getting a response out of them. Very upsetting. The problem with the cable was it just wouldn’t work unless it was hanging out of the socket. My other 10-pin devices were flawless so I knew the cable was the problem. I finally got my replacement cable. However they never told me when it was sent. So unfortunately this is discouraging to deal with them, they however offer the best/most convenient product on the market it seems. They also seem to have replaced the cable with a coiled spring like cable. Maybe they knew of the issues? Either way I thought I would share. All the best.

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Not so special huh? Sure looked a heck of a lot better in the field. When I find a scenic that has potential in a difficult lighting situation I try and think before I hit that shutter button. Thinking  about what I am going to do with it before the shutter clicks. Knowing how low contrast the scene is I will be looking for something that will bring out the contrast (more then just dragging the contrast slider) and yet will still remain with the same feel. If you can find a scene like this where the fog isn’t uniform and bellows back and forth exposing sharp and unsharp sections you might be in better shape. Dealing with what we have; I turned to Nik’s plugins for photoshop to see what I could do. I started with keeping this image in color with a focus on bringing back what I saw and how to show others what that moment felt to me.

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The first filter I reach for is the “tonal contrast” filter. Pretty self explanatory why I would pick this filter being my goal was contrast. I also checked the box labeled “Conventional High Pass Contrast.” I like using this where you are looking for a real hard punch of contrast to your image. It appears to also help with structure and the overall color of the image.

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Something I have been experimenting with is running a filter for a second time to increase its effect rather then just maxing out sliders. I feel it effects the image more naturally then over working those pixels. It is hard to see on the blog here, but it brings a much needed boost to the detail hiding in the image. One thing that I feel is missing is the color of this image. The image has that gray, auto white balance feel. In order to counteract that I went looking for a filter that would contribute to the overall color of the image, but not by just dragging a saturation slider.

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I settled with the foliage filter. Now if you peaked at the layers panel you knew this and know where I am going with it. For my color rendition of this image I feel I have finally achieved what I was looking for. You still can see the ‘fog’ in the background yet the flora is still grabbing your attention. I didn’t use a black point or white point in this series. I strictly used Nik Color Efex Pro 3.0 for all my editing of the image. Knowing how the software will create the contrast to the image it will do it for me and I can adjust it to my liking using the sliders in color efex pro. Through natural curiosity I started to think what it would look like in black and white. Rather then flatten the image I kept the layers intact and worked from the most recent layer. This would allow me to turn on and off the effects added individually clicking the eye icon next to each layer.

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Black and white by itself wasn’t doing it for me. I chose to use a high contrast yellow filter to make those leaves pop. Infrared was an option, but it just didn’t do it for me. I felt character was missing. Black and white didn’t have that forest woody feel to it. It just felt too cold. To complete my final thought on what to do with the image I ended up using..

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…Dark Sepia! I didn’t want a regular sepia wash that tends to just blanket its effect across the image. Great if you want to imitate an old photo perhaps, but I wanted those darks and shadows to come alive. I found that Nik’s dark sepia filter did exactly that. Reaching my final result wasn’t just a one image resolution. I have at least three workable images in mind with just one photograph (foliage filter, black and white, and dark sepia looks.) The possibilities are limitless l. Now with post processing in mind go out and make the best of that spring weekend!

Ps. I FINALLY got my hands on the Phottix Plato N8 for Nikon camera bodies with 10-pin connectors and it’s a heck of a lot of fun. Working on a write up as we speak. It’s a much better version then going with Nikon’s 9.8′ extension cord. More to come…

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